Written by Lorena Bleker Revised by Dr. Mike Reed and Jennifer Hernández
Dear
Guest:
Welcome
to Guatemala and its capital, Guatemala City; officially named “La Nueva
Guatemala de la Asunción” but affectionately known as “Guate” to Guatemalans.
We would like to share with you some background about our city and offer
suggestions of places to enjoy during your stay in the capital.
Guatemala
City is the largest and most culturally diverse city in Central America.
It sits atop a broad plateau in the Guatemalan Highlands at the favorable
altitude of 1,500 meters (5,000 feet) at the crossroads of the ancient trade
routes between the cool highlands and the warm lowlands to the north and south.
Dense occupation of the plateau extends back to the period between 400 and 600
BC when the Maya city of Kaminaljuyú became the most important trading and
ceremonial center of the Central American Highlands.
Following
the Spanish conquest of Guatemala by Pedro de Alvarado, the capital of the
colonial Kingdom of Guatemala, was relocated two times prior to settling on its
present location. The first site for the capital, Iximché, founded in
1524 was chosen for its defensive location but proved inconvenient in other
ways, like conflicts with the natives, and was not declared capital of the
Kingdom by the Spanish crown, like the last three capitals.
In 1527,
a site for the capital was chosen in the broad Almolonga Valley at the base of
the Volcán de Agua where the town of Ciudad Vieja sits today but in 1541, an
earthquake released a torrent of water down the volcano’s slopes, wiping out
the capital, which was then, relocated to the center of the nearby Panchoy
Valley in 1543. The beautiful city of “Santiago de los Caballeros de
Guatemala”, today called Antigua, remained the colonial capital of Central
America until it was leveled by a series of powerful earthquakes in 1773
prompting the Spanish to once again relocate the capital in 1778 to where it
remains today. Independence from Spain was achieved in 1821.
Photo by Alejandro Esquité
The transformation of Guatemala into a modern state is a process that is still taking place. Spanish colonial rule was replaced by institutions favoring the powerful landowning class. Guatemala City underwent a renaissance during this period in the late 19th and early 20th centuries and was known as the “silver cup” for its tidiness and elegance. Immigrants from Europe and North America brought new ideas, practices and styles into the Guatemalan economy and urban society.
Photo by Alejandro Esquité
The
people of Guatemala City benefited from its position as a center of industry,
investment, commerce, education and intellectual exchange.
In the
1960s and ‘70s Guatemala’s fortunes suffered serious setbacks from internal
conflicts that deteriorated into a civil war that lasted 36 years and left more
than 200,000 deads; and a major earthquake in 1976 that devastated a large area
and caused 25,000 deaths. Guatemala City suffered serious damage to many
older and poorly built buildings. Many
lessons were learned from those terrible events, like switching from tile to
aluminum roofs for earthquake safety and a commitment to maintaining democratic
governments and respect for human rights following the Peace Accords of 1996
that ended the civil war.
Although
positive changes resulted from the time of conflict, we still face problems and
challenges like those faced by people in many countries around the world.
The Guatemala City of the 21st century is a modern capital, with the most
active economy in Central America.
Photo by Alejandro Esquité
Foreign
travelers to any country should make sure they are aware of unsafe situations
and places to avoid. Robberies of tourists do sometimes occur in our capital,
but we want you to know that Guatemala gives priority to the security and
well-being of our foreign visitors along the country’s touristic routes and
destinations.
You will
hear negative stories of robbery passed along traveler’s networks evolve in
many ways that can undermine visitors’ sense of safety rather than stimulate
discussions on ways to travel safely.
Statistics show that foreign visitors are less likely to be sought out
for robberies and other crimes.
Common-sense measures for safety should always be followed anywhere in
the world, as incidents may happen.
Visitors
to Guatemala overwhelmingly speak of the warmth and character of the Guatemalan
people – across all cultures and levels of our society. They find
Guatemalans to be among the most hospitable, friendly, kind and helpful people
they have encountered in their travels.
This is true in Guatemala City as well as throughout the country.
It is a major reason why so many visitors show so much enthusiasm while
sharing stories of their experiences traveling in Guatemala and why so many of
them make return trips.
The
capital is a multicultural and multi ethnic city, so the culture is not just in
our pre-Hispanic and colonial heritage. The melting pot of races, traditions,
walks of life and political view, spice up the daily life of this city.
In this
Guide to Guatemala City, we will include a suggested itinerary for unique and
interesting place to visit in our capital. You will find a list of museums,
restaurants that offer local dishes, archaeological sites within the city,
airport information, and important things to know about travelling in
Guatemala.
We are
proud of our pre-hispanic and colonial heritage, as well as our modern city. We
are happy to have you visit our country and we hope you will include Guatemala
City in your future travel plans.
•
By DOS LUNAS•
Posted in Travel Guide•Comments Off on La Aurora International Airport Arriving
ARRIVING
TO GUATEMALA CITY AIRPORT
If you are
flying to Guatemala, there are some aspects you should consider making your
arrival easier and smoother.
In flight the cabin crew will give
you a form that you need to fill, and hand it over at immigration.
IMMIGRATION:
Once you reach immigration, your
passport will be stamped for admission, and the stamp will state the amount of
days you can stay, according to your country of origin, North America, European Union,
Australia, New Zealand, for example, will have a 90 days visa to visit the
country.
If you need to know how to extend
your stay, or pay for overstay, please see our section of Immigration and
passports
Once you go through immigration, you
will reach the baggage belt if you have checked in luggage, and later to customs,
right before the exit lobby. There is one machine right near the last luggage
carrousel where you can pay USD2.00 for renting a cart.
Prior to the exit door on arrivals,
you will find the tourist information desk, car rentals, taxis and shuttle
offices. There are two exit doors, left and right. Airport parking is right in front.
Make sure you have your pickup service organized
and arranged a meeting point, because depending on the arrival time, the
arrivals hall can be very busy and overwhelming, so it can be difficult to find
your hosts.
SERVICES AVAILABLE ON ARRIVALS
ATM:
There is only one atm before the immigration line, on the left side. It is a 5B. All ATMs charge approx. USD5.00 per transaction. The max amount per day allowed to pull out of the atm is Q2000.00
Mastercard and visa is accepted on these ATMs, but maestro card is not. If you have maestro card, only the BAC ATM (banc of America Central) will accept that card.
MONEY
EXCHANGE: there are world exchange kiosks on arrival, prior immigration and after
immigration, despite of the deals they offer to the passengers, the exchange
rate does not make much difference.
Always, before arrival, check the official exchange rate with the banks
and the rate of these money exchange kiosks.
www.Globalexchange.com
Pros: they change all kind of international currencies,
they are open at the airport 24/7
Cons: exchange rate is lower compared to the
official rate.
BANKS: there are no banks on arrivals where you can
change USD or Euros. If you see a Banrural agency, that bank is not exchanging
currency. Indeed, none of their banks
change money to tourists, unless you have an account with them.
PUBLIC
TELEPHONES: there are no
public telephones available on arrivals, neither on departures, only outside on
the street, it may be dangerous if you are with luggage there in the middle of
the night, plus you need local coins.
INTERNET: free airport Wi-fi is available on
departures, but not on arrivals. Although there is one internet access option
without password, they seem to belong to one car rental.
LOCAL INTERNET AND MOBIL PHONE COMPANIES: There is an improvised kiosk on arrivals where you can buy a local sim card, make sure your telephone is unlocked, specially the iPhone. Tigo has more wide coverage, and if sim card tuenti is available, they have great deals with internet and calls. The kiosk is not open for the late evening flights.
LUGGAGE
CART: They are available next to the
last the luggage carrousel and cost USD2.00. So, if you need one, bring USD1.00
bills in good shape.
TAXIS
Before the exit door on arrivals
there is a stand that belong to the airport taxis, you can pay for your service
there. Normally to the hotel areas, they
charge USD10.00 for the ride; airport taxis zone 13 are authorized taxis. You can also call uber if you have internet
access.
TOURIST
INFORMATION DESK
The INGUAT is the official tourist
board of Guatemala, they are not always open but if so, they can give you maps
and brochures for different destinations and services and can help you to make
a call to your hotel.
CAMTUR (chamber of Tourism) has a hospitality
desk on arrivals hall. The hosts of
these two organizations are not always behind desk ready to give you tourist information
or assistance, especially during the evening flights.
MISSING
LUGGAGE: you need to fill a report with
the airline, make sure you leave telephone and address where you can be reached
and, request a direct phone no. of the baggage department of the airline at la
aurora airport. Most of airlines,
specially the US airlines, will deliver your luggage to your hotel.
AIRPORT
SHUTTLES: Most of the 4- and 5-star hotels, and hostels and bed and breakfasts
located near airport, offer free airport shuttle. Check their schedules as not
all of them offer 24-hour service.The airport shuttles of these big
hotels are normally waiting for passengers outside the arrival’s hall on the
left side. The tourist shuttle to
Antigua and the airport taxis are located on the right side.
WE
RECOMMEND
Always check
if you leave the airport with your passport and with the address where you go,
Contact the
airline if you left something on the plane. The airport has a lost and found
office.
Passport must
be valid at least 6 months
Many airlines
will not let you board with one-way ticket, keep that in mind.
•
By DOS LUNAS•
Posted in Travel Guide•Comments Off on La Aurora International Airport Departure
Departing from Guatemala City Airport
The process for airport check in is very simple, and most airline staff are friendly and helpful. UNITED AIRLINES have one of the most service minded, and efficient staff and their website is the best for selecting your seats, checking availability and flight information. If you fly with low cost airlines, check with them before going to the airport if you must pay for printing the boarding pass at the airport.
DEPARTURE TAX: Your airline ticket already included all taxes. No airline or airport staff is authorized to request any payment from you.
CHECK IN: Be at the airport, at least 2 hrs. before
departures. Most of counters are closed
for check in, one hour before flights.
The immigration and security process may be slow.
Photo by Henk Bleker
AIRLINES OPERATING AT LA AURORA AIRPORT
There
are 10 international airlines and one local airline operating at La Aurora
Airport:
When
you are checking in and getting your boarding pass…The airline will give you a
form that you will also have to give to the immigration officer for your
departure control. Make sure you have good sight or bring your glasses or a
magnifier, you will need it for this form.
Keep in mind that if you don’t have this form ready when it is your turn
for passport control, they will send you back to the line. Each person must fill the form, some people
will tell you that one form per family is enough, but the criteria and
information from the immigration officers is inconsistent, so to be safe, fill
up one form per person.
Photo by Alejandro Esquité
RESTAURANTS: Above the airline counters, there is a food court. Although if you have limited time, go straight through security and immigration. After immigration, toward the departure gates, you will find all kind of restaurants and cafes where you can enjoy a cup of coffee without being stressed. Services are open from 4 am. The average price for a decent cup of coffee is Q25.00
Some
of the restaurants available near the boarding gates
MACDONALS
PIZZA HUTT
SUBWAY
CAFÉ BARISTA
Photo by Alejandro Esquité
If you
have a domestic flight to Flores, there is only one café (café gitano) before
heading toward the boarding gate. Not
many options really, so be prepared with your own bites. The two airlines operating Flores serve a simple
snack on board, but also the flight is short.
(approx. 1 hr.)
Domestic airlines -destination Flores:
Avianca: www.avianca.com (operates an
ATR, turbo prop. 48 Pax) 2 flights a day.
Tag: www.tag.com.gt (Operates,
ATR, Jetstream, Saab) 2 to 3 flights a day. (depending on the season)
AIRPORT LOUNGE: Zacapa Rum lounge is one of the best at the airport. Located near the boarding gates, some airlines use this lounge for their business class passengers.
Souvenir shops for handicrafts, Zacapa Rum and export
quality Guatemalan Coffee are available on the duty-free area, near the
boarding gates. If you buy coffee
before going to the airport, pack your coffee in checked in luggage instead of
hand luggage.
The award-winning Rum, considered the best rum in the world,
is one of the favorite products the tourist like to purchase. Avoid buying the rum
in duty free if you have a connecting flight in the US or Europe and if you
need to go through security control there.
Alternative you can buy your Zacapa Rum in Villa de los Añejos, in zone 10
Guatemala City near the Westin Hotel.
They have similar prices to duty free and the liter option is available among
other fine rums from the Botrán House.
.
Important
information
AIRPORT ENTRANCE:
Upon
entry to the departure area, Security staff will request you to show your
passport. Failure in showing the passport.
They will not let you in if you don’t have your passport. Airport is not open 24 hrs. you are not
allowed to wait or spend the night inside the airport if you have an early
flight or a very late arrival.
There
is only one place to buy drinks and snacks outside departures: CAFÉ TUCAN. They
have Wi-Fi available for customers.
PARKING: Airport parking cost Q20.00.
To
get to the parking from departures level, follow the side road on the left before
getting into the airport entrance, and will lead you to the parking near
departures. This road begins behind CAFÉ TUCAN.
In that parking there is also the car rental drop off parking. This is
the closest parking for departures entrance.
ATM: There
is one 5B ATM at the entrance of the airport, hidden behind the money exchange
kiosk.
MONEY EXCHANGE: global exchange kiosk is also available for
all kind of currencies.
BANK: There is only one bank on departures,
(Banrural) they will not change any currency. That bank may be useful for you
if you need to buy your entrance ticket to Tikal Park or if you need to pay the
fine for your overstay. Banrural is open
from 6 am though.
LUGGAGE STORAGE:
This service not available at the
airport.
WAITING AREA:
There is no place to wait before the time you check in. the airport does not
have 24 hrs. service, so you are not allowed spend the night at the airport.
INTERNET:
Free airport Wi-fi, only available in departures and near the Boarding gates.
GOING TO AIRPORT LA AURORA:
Rush hour: Take your precautions and avoid Guatemala City
rush hour. You don’t want to miss your flight.
If you have Wi-Fi get the app Waze for checking traffic.
Rush hour AM:
From
6am to 9 am from Monday to Friday. Direction west to east and south to north,
Rush hour PM:
From 4 pm to 8 pm.
From east to west and from north to south.
If you stay in the city this is the average time you will
take to go to the airport from your hotel and vice-versa, (and when it is not
rush hour):
Zone 1 and 2:
35 to 40 minutes approx.
Zone 4: 20 to
25 min.
Zone 9 and 10:
15 to 20 minutes.
Zone 13, Aurora I and Aurora II. From 2 to 5 minutes.
Zone 13, Americas:
10 minutes
Zone 14. 15
minutes
Zone 15 and 16:
25 to 35 minutes.
FROM ANTIGUA: due to traffic, count a min. of 1 ½ hr. from
Antigua, assuming you go straight to airport.
FROM PANAJACHEL:
Consider at least 4 hours to get to the city if you don’t stop in Antigua.
PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION TO AIRPORT: at this
moment we are not able to recommend any reliable and safe public transportation
to airport. The Trans metro (green
buses) is the best system but unfortunately, they don’t cover the airport
route. We absolutely do not recommend the
use of the red buses, they are extremely unsafe and Transurbano bus is not
intended for one-time event, you need to buy a bus card. (not practical)
AIRPORT SHUTTLES: Most
of the 4- and 5-star hotel from zone 10, and hostels/bed and breakfasts located
near airport, offer free airport shuttle. Check their schedules as not all of
them offer 24-hour service.
TAXI: Uber is the cheapest option if you have access to request this service. Make sure you provide the exact address where you are located, especially if you are in gated areas.
The Yellow taxis run by meter, but it is complicated to get their services, you need to call them, provide a telephone number, address, etc. and they offer the service with a min. waiting time of 15 min. The good news is that you can book them in advance and they accept credit cards, USD and local currency as form of payment. Tel. 2332-1515 (Spanish only) Service is reliable.
In many streets of Guatemala
City, you will find hot dogs or mixtas.
The Guatemalan hotdogs are called “shukos”, they are different from the
American hotdog. The shukos are coming
with a special type of bread, inside they add guacamole and the coleslaw salad
is seasoned with vinegar and spices, the hotdog is grilled in charcoal
fire. The best place to try the shukos
and enjoy the whole action of selling the shukos in a kind of drive- thru
dynamic is in Hot Dogs El Chino. They
are located in front of Liceo Guatemala school, in zone 5, very close to the
beginning of the north side of la Reforma Avenue, zone 10. (almost across of the botanical garden and
the Yurrita Church.)
The mixtas are another option. It has all the ingredients
of the hotdogs but instead of bread they use corn tortillas. The original “Mixtas
Frankfurt” are the most famous mixtas in Guatemala City. These are not in a food cart on the streets
of Guatemala, they went to the next level and have a small snack bar where you
can enjoy them. Open since 1930, Frankfurt is one of the nostalgic places for
Guatemalans. https://www.mixtasfrankfurt.com/
Address
11 calle y 7 avenida esquina zona 1
Edificio Lido Local 3
teléfono: 22191818
6ta avenida 6-27 zona 9
Edificio Tivoli Plaza Local 3
teléfono: 23609902
Guatemalan
street food can also be found in several neighborhoods and markets
around
Guatemala City. The most special place to enjoy these foods beside the local
fairs, is inside the central market, located in the heart of the historic
district, zone 1. (One block away behind
the Cathedral)
These
are just a few options of Guatemalan street food:
Tostadas: hard
corn tortilla with guacamole or beans or tomato sauce, garnished with onion,
hard cheese and parsley.
Tacos: Our tacos are the Mexican version of the
flautas. These are hard tortillas rolled up and stuffed with meat or
potato. The top is garnished with
guacamole, tomato sauce, (not ketchup), hard cheese, onion and parsley.
Rellenitos: plantain patties stuffed with sweet beans,
sugar and cinnamon, they are fried together, and it is a very nice dessert.
Elotes locos: crazy corn, on the cob with special cover of
ketchup, mayo, mustard, hot sauce and hard cheese. If you don’t want the corn
with all the circus, just order “elote cocido” that means “only cooked corn”,
you will get them with a bit of salt and lemon, if you like to add some.
Another
way to eat the corn are the “Elotes asados” or grilled corn.! Add some lemon
and salt and ready to eat!
Atol
de Elote: This is a hot corn
drink that it is thick, smooth and sweetened and spiced up with vanilla
cinnamon, sugar, etc., it is absolutely delicious.!
Chocobananos;
This is like a dessert, made of banana, chocolate and that´s
it! It is frozen, in most of the local
neighborhood stores they sell these “chocobananos” for a cheap price.
Helados de frutas: These are local made
ice cream made of natural fruit
water and
sugar, some of them with milk instead of water.
We
have the best fruits, and you can enjoy them also, ready to eat. These “bolsas
de frutas” (fruit bags) can be found in all the local markets and some street
vendors around Guatemala City. The fruit bags can be spiced up with salt,
lemon, chili powder and pepita powder, this mix taste better with the mangoes
and pineapple.
Photo by Henk Bleker
Goat milk: Leche de cabra:
Quite often
you can find a guy with a bunch of goats walking around in the middle of the
busy historic center. Their business is, selling fresh goat milk in a plastic
cup. Oh yes! from the goat to your cup, for approx. Q5.00
Guatemala
City – this is NOT to be missed. People talk about how unsafe Guatemala City is
but really enjoyed it and never felt unsafe. But there are so many beautiful
and interesting things to see. If you worry about visiting there, hire a guide.
Believe me, it will be worth it! We hired Fabio Saenz with Authentic Guatemala.
He was reasonable, very knowledgeable and an excellent driver. His English is excellent,
and he will customize your tour to see the places you want to see as well as a
few of his own. You can contact him by email or phone and will find him
reliable in getting back to you with suggestions. His email is Fabio@authenticguatemala.com and
his phone number is +502 4715-9095. His webpage: www.authenticguatemala.com.
Here is
a summary of what we saw while visiting, along with my personal take on the
experience. Just to put things in perspective, we toured on the day of the big
march in January 2019. It was interesting to experience the historical area
under extreme police presence – it was probably the safest place in Guatemala
that day!
Day One
On our
arrival day we had enough time to visit a few places on our own. We had the
hotel’s driver drop us off and pick us up, because yes, we were a bit nervous
to be on our own. We needn’t have been – we felt totally safe in the places we visited.
Our
first stop was the National Museum of Anthropology. The museum was worth the
trip. It has an amazing collection of artefacts and stelae from back as far as
800BC. There is a huge scale model of Tikal which is good thing to see before
you visit there. The carved stelae are huge and in amazing condition.
Everything is housed in a very cool-looking building. The displays are very
nicely done and there is lots of English!
On the
same site there are two other places to visit, the National Gallery of Modern
Art and the Natural History Museum. We skipped the latter as it was all in
Spanish and ours is very limited. The National Gallery of Modern Art has a
beautiful collection of art, some very stunning work. Definitely worth an hour
of your time if you like art!
We had
agreed to meet our driver at the Artisans Market just down the block from the museums,
so we wandered down the road, about a block walk. I expected a market like
those we have seen in the past, cluttered and noisy and not very clean, but it
was more like a bunch of tiny stores and there was almost no one there. Each
seller had their own small booth, although many of the items repeated
themselves over and over and many, I suspect were massed produced in China.
Loved all the bright colours. Unless you are shopping for something, you can
see this in a half hour or so.
Across
the street from here is the Zoo. Unfortunately, we just didn’t have enough time
but on a full day, this could easily be added in. We found this whole area very
safe-feeling and wouldn’t hesitate to visit all of these spots on our own.
Day Two
Started
our day with a traditional breakfast of eggs, beans, fried plantains and coffee
(most important as after not having any on our flight I was feeling caffeine
deprived!). Our guide, Fabio arrived right on time and we headed out to tour
Guatemala City. This is something not undertaken by many tourists. Whether it
is a fear based on past history of it being an unsafe place or a lack of
interest, it just isn’t a hot spot on the tourist trail. Wow – so many people
are so wrong! We could have spent two or three days here.
Guatemala
City is huge with over four million people. It grew outwards like a snail from
its original centre and sprawls for miles and miles. It is divided into “zones”
and is relatively flat in the centre but surrounded by hills. Traffic isn’t
nearly as bad as some large cities and cars are relatively new, mostly Japanese
and Korean with few US built cars as parts are expensive. There are lots of
buses of varying quality…red chicken buses, blue commuter buses and green
ones that travel only in certain areas but are much more modern. The city is
relatively clean and has a lot of green spaces, parks and playgrounds. It is a
mix of old colonial structures and in the touristy zone, modern hotels and not
so high high-rises. Nothing over ten stories due to the earthquake risks.
Our
first stop was at the National Theatre, which in its heyday must have been
beautiful. We just saw the outside, but it opens regularly to host theatre,
opera, symphony, ballet and other performances on a regular basis. Hard to tell
what the inside is like, but the outside looked a little neglected and the
building itself was impressive. It was designed by architect Efraín Recinos
whose name we saw several places in the country.
On the
same grounds we visited the Military Museum and the original San Jose Fort.
Inside the fort was a historical presentation of Guatemala through its many
years of war. Outside on the roof, between the canons, the view was impressive
in all directions. We got an idea of how big this city is! Off in the distance below,
we could hear sounds of the protestors outside a government building.
Our day
was somewhat modified from its original plan due to some road closures and
building closures. We weren’t sure what to expect. Our guide drove with a
traffic app open on his phone, searching out the best routes to avoid traffic
so he could get us to the sites we wanted to see.
A short
drive from the Cultural Centre was the Guatemala Relief Map. This spot was
quite amazing. It took 16 years for an engineering team to travel the country
to amass the geological information and then another year to build it. And all
of this was done in 1905! It is about 60 meters across in each direction (my
guesstimate), built to a scale of 1:10000 with elevations built 1:2000…so it
is BIG! It was an interesting to plot out our route.
After
the relief map, we headed to the downtown historical area.
Guatemala,
like many Central American countries has been a country in constant civil
unrest for what seems forever. They have been relatively “at peace” since 1996
when the civil war ended. But poverty and inequalities are still very much a
part of life here, corruption is rampant, and the natives seem to be growing
hostile. In oversimplified terms, the UN sent in a commission to investigate
corruption at high levels of government. Recently, the government ordered them
to leave the country. The locals are protesting this, saying the government
hasn’t the right to do so. The government is saying the commission overstepped
its boundaries and became involved in areas they weren’t supposed to be
touching and so has ordered them out. This week, there are protests and
blockades around the country with a large protest march in Guatemala City
today.
We
parked nearby the historical centre and walked to the central plaza. Because
this area is home to many government buildings, security was unbelievable. It
would have been a good day to rob a bank somewhere else in the city because it
seemed every available police officer was guarding an entrance to a building or
blocking a street. There were thousands of them, including traffic police,
regular police and riot squads!
Around
the Presidential Palace, which is now a cultural centre, the police stood
shoulder to shoulder, guarding every entrance. This building covers a very
large square block so a LOT of police! The building sits on one side of the
large Central Parque, where there was a very small group of noisy but peaceful
protestors, but mostly just families and sellers.
Our guide,
Fabio, took us inside a couple of buildings that used to be private residences
but have since become government offices. One was the office of the electoral
commission, which is gearing up as an election will be announced this week.
Tomorrow is the installation of a new president who was elected last July and
the official announcement of the new election that will take place in July.
Today the outgoing president gave his year end report and exit speech – likely
another reason for the timing of the protests. At any rate, the house was
beautiful, inside and out… neocolonial architecture with terrazzo floors,
murals on the walls and ceilings, a lovely central courtyard. What were once
bedrooms and bathrooms around the courtyard are now offices. The dining room is
now the media room.
Our next
stop was to be the Central Market but as we neared it, we could hear the voices
of the protestor march. We watched for a bit, impressed by the number of people
marching, then headed down into the market. Fabio stopped us at a food stand,
one of the oldest and most popular around, run by the same family for over 60
years. We sampled a few things…chili rellenos, tostadas and then the woman
gave us each a small pastry stuffed with the most delicious sweet filling. It
was enough of a light lunch to get us through the afternoon. The market was
remarkably clean, even throughout the wet market areas. Lots of souvenirs but for
us, not yet!
From the
market we wandered down Piñata Street – every store had huge piñatas hanging
outside. Who knew there could be so much demand for them! Roads around the
national building where the president was giving his speech were blocked off so
we took a roundabout route to a few more stops, including the old post office,
which is now an arts school and a street archway that is a copy of a famous one
in Antigua that we will see later in our trip.
We visited
a few big churches, including Iglesia San Francisco, which was stunning, a
couple others whose names I have already forgotten!
We took a
green bus back to the Central Parque area and while my husband and I visited
the Metropolitan Cathedral, Fabio went to retrieve the car. The cathedral was
beautiful. People were lined up to see the black Jesus, which is a big thing in
Guatemala. Many of the items in the church were brought from Antigua when the
capital was moved. The pews went on forever. They would need a good sound
system to hear the priest. Lots of locals inside.
It had
been a long day and a lot of walking, so it was nice to sit in the car! And we
weren’t done yet! We drove to see Iglesia La Merced, but it was closed today
due to renovations. We did get to Cerrito del Carmen (church on the little
hill). It was built originally in 1620 and then rebuilt after one of the big
earthquakes. I have read that it used to be a spot for drug deals and criminal activity,
but it is now a park area where locals gather to run, exercise and play games.
The church is small, but the view is BIG!
Our final
stop was a treat! Fabio took us for a traditional Guatemalan hot dog! There is neighborhood
that specializes in these with several shops all along the same street. As you
drive by, they try to wave you in. He took us to his favorite, in a small cafe
where you could watch the owner as he prepared your hotdog…grilled bun,
lettuce, mustard, guacamole, onions and chopped smoked sausage…tasty indeed!
We
drove home through the more modern areas, down a beautiful treed and grassy boulevard,
Avenida la Reforma. It was designed after the Champs Élysées. Then we travelled
the Avenue of the Americas which had plazas every few blocks representing all
the Latin America countries.
Where is the best place to eat Guatemalan food? There are a few very nice restaurants in Guatemala City where you can enjoy delicious meals from the national kitchen: Guatemalan food is a fusion of Maya, Hispanic, Sephardi, and Caribbean cultures, with German and Mexican influences. Guatemalan´s favorite food in general is the grilled steak, which is why you will find a large amount of steak houses all over the city. Another favorite is ceviche; Guatemalans love ceviche but we recommend you not to eat this food on the street, as it is seafood.
A favorite snack is “chicharrones”. (pork skin) with corn tortilla and “chojin”, that is a chopped radish salad served as topping to the chicharrones. Tortillas with chicharrones are accompanied by fried onions and fried jalapeño chillies, guacamole, etc.
GUATEMALAN
RESTAURANTES IN HISTORIC DOWNTOWN
ZONE
1
PAN
AMERICAN HOTEL
Pan American Hotel is located in the heart of the historic downtown, near the Plaza Mayor, between 5th and 6th. avenue and 9th. Street of zone 1.
The building was, until 1942, the Hotel Astoria and this beautiful hotel is one of the many witnesses of the changes that have occurred in Guatemala City. The elegance of the Pan American Hotel is reflected in the structure of the hotel with the geometric beauty of art deco. Inside is decorated with indigenous motifs, textiles and handicrafts, furniture that evoke the colonial era and photos of the place across more than a century of existence, witnessing the cultural evolution of Guatemala. The setting is harmonized with piano and marimba music in special events, and the entire hotel is decorated with candles and flowers. Its midday buffet makes available the flavors of Guatemalan cuisine.
Photo: Pan-American Hotel
The purpose of this place is to provide the visitor with a historic atmosphere and a nostalgic sense of the old times, when the city was called the “Silver cup”. Its staff wear beautiful regional costumes and at the entrance of the restaurant, you will find a young woman who prepares corn tortillas in a traditional way. There is a variety of Guatemalan native dishes that its menu offers, from appetizers, main courses, desserts to natural soft drinks and the great coffee that has made the country famous throughout the world.
CENTRAL MARKET
In the heart of the Historic Center of Guatemala City is the Central Market, which since the end of the 19th century is “The place” where traditional Guatemalan cuisine is prepared at very affordable prices, dishes like chopped radish with pork rind served in hot corn tortillas; rolled pork head and vinaigrette legs accompanied by corn tortillas, special dressings, desserts and drinks. Some dishes are only prepared on special occasions, but others are available all the time.
The theme of these places is that they offer food on foot since they follow the concept of fast food for consumption and not a restaurant experience. However, you can sit in the “comedores” at the market and enjoy a nice hot chicken soup, while some musical groups perform near the diners.
Some of the Guatemalan food that you can order in the Central Market are:
Pepian (chicken mole)
Caldo de Gallina (Chicken soup)
Patitas a la vinaigrette (Pickled pork muscles and lower legs)
Tortillas con chicharron y chojin (Radish with pork rind in a corn tortilla)
Revolcado (rolled pork head)
Tostadas de guacamol (fried tortilla with guacamole)
Tacos de papa (rolled up tacos stuffed with potato)
Dobladas (fried tortillas stuffed with meat)
Caldo de res (Vegetable meat boullon with vegetables)
Photo by Claudia Wood, Canada.
BAR EL PORTAL:
Known as “El portalito”, this is a nostalgic bar located in Pasaje Rubio, inside Portal del Comercio around the Plaza mayor. This bar is famous for its “chibolas” (tap beer in a large round glass) and for its “mojitos”.
Back in the 50´s Che Guevara used to come to this place for a drink; many intellectuals have also used the “portalito” as headquarters.
This old-fashioned bar with an excellent service will transport you to the past, not just for its old-fashioned decor but for its overall atmosphere. Live music is available usually at midday.
Photo by: Fresita la Hada, (nomada.gt)
ARRIN CUAN
Arrin
Cuan, is recognized by Guatemalans and tourists that enjoy different dishes
from the Guatemalan kitchen. One of the goals of this restaurant is to highlight
the Guatemalan gastronomic heritage and share with national and foreign
tourists, the great multicultural value that Guatemala has.
Since
1995, Arrin Cuan won three awards at the International Gastronomic Festival
that is celebrated annually in Guatemala. Currently, Arrin Cuan offers 40 different
typical dishes to their visitors.
Photo: Guatemala.com
ARRIN CUAN
Arrin Cuan. is familiar to Guatemalans and tourists that want to enjoy different dishes from the Guatemalan kitchen. The main goal of the restaurant is to highlight Guatemalan gastronomic heritage and share with
national and foreign tourists the great multicultural value that Guatemala has.
Since 1995, Arrin Cuan has won three awards in the
International Gastronomic Festival that is celebrated annually in Guatemala.
Currently, Arrin Cuan offers 40 different typical dishes to their visitors
Photo: Guatemala.com
OTHER GUATEMALAN
RESTAURANTS IN HISTORIC DOWNTOWN:
One of the finest coffees in the world Written by: Lorena Bleker Edited and revised by Ailsa Naismith. Bristol, UK
Photo: Philadelphia Farm, Antigua Guatemala
Coffee is a personal taste,
yet, there are ways to appreciate a good coffee.
Guatemalan coffee is rated
by many experts as one of the best coffees in the world. The coffee varies from region to region and
harvested from different altitudes and that is why the flavors of Guatemalan
coffee are so special and complex.
The flavor of Guatemalan
coffee is medium to full-bodied, it is perfectly balanced in its acidity and in
most harvests, you can appreciate the individual tones; we could say in general
that; a cup of Guatemalan coffee will carry the chocolate, smoky and spicy
tones.
Some of the Guatemalan´s finest
coffee is produced in the farms around Antigua Guatemala and the slopes of the
volcanoes nearby. If you go to Antigua
Guatemala you can visit a few farms like Philadelphia Coffee or la Azotea Farm,
which also holds a Coffee Museum. Coffee from Cobán is a high-quality acidic
coffee, due to its altitude. The most famous representative of Cobán coffee is
Kaffee Dieseldorf. The Huehuetenango coffee is noted for its finest acidity and
unique flavors and the best coffee of this area, according to experts, is the
one coming from El Injerto Farm.
Guatemala still holds old species
of trees such as bourbon, thanks to sponsored programs that are enabling coffee
producers to continue cultivating high quality trees for the gourmet market.
How did the coffee boom start in Guatemala?
The Germans in the 19th
century introduced coffee to Guatemala. Their immigration to Guatemala began
with the socio-economic crisis in Germany, during the transition to the
industrial era. The first Germans arrived at the Belgian colony which was
settled in Santo Tomas, Puerto Barrios, Guatemala in the 1840s,
After their first arrival in
Guatemala, the Germans also settled in the capital and in many other parts of
the country and devoted themselves to their profession in crafts, business and
commerce. This immigration increased significantly in the last decades of the 19th
century due to the industrial and commercial expansion of the German Empire as
well as the opportunities in Guatemala under the liberal regimes which favored
concession of land to foreigners especially those from Europe and North
America. The Germans introduced the cultivation of coffee and developed a big
industry with trade and export. At the end of the century they controlled one
third of the coffee production in Guatemala and exported two thirds of its
production to Germany.
By the end of the 19th century
about one thousand Germans lived in Guatemala, and by 1920s, the number grew to
up to 3,000. The Germans founded associations, clubs, schools, a Protestant
church and a German newspaper. Through these institutions they preserved the
characteristics of their nationality, language and culture.
By 1940 the German
community was a visible and influential force in Guatemalan society and its economy.
During the World War II, under the strong economic and political pressure from
the United States, the Guatemalan government confiscated all the assets and
properties from them. Many Germans were
deported back to Germany, just a few were left behind in Guatemala and kept
their farms. It has been said that the
ones left; claimed to be Jewish Germans, therefore they could stay. The
Dieseldorff is one of the German families, allowed to stay, and their farms
near Coban are still producing good quality coffee.
According to the German
embassy, nowadays there are approx. 5000 Germans registered and living in
Guatemala and an unknown number of descendants from the earlier immigration. Guatemala currently has a strong community of
Germans who make up the majority of European immigrants in the country, and it
is also the most populous German communities in all Central American countries.
Where to buy good coffee in Guatemala City?
There are a few places in zone 13 where you
can buy good coffee to take home.
The coffee you enjoy at
Dos Lunas, comes from Antigua Guatemala. We also sell coffee in portions of 200
grams. In beans or ground.
Photo: Finca el Injerto
The Guatemalan coffee,
ranked best worldwide, comes from the Finca el Injerto in Huehuetenango. You
can enjoy a cup of their best harvest for Q30.00 (approx. USD4.00 cup) A pound
of this coffee cost Q140.00 or approx. USD18.50
Between Dos Lunas and the
airport there is one Coffee Roasting company called Godoy’s coffee. They also have a coffee tour and you can taste
their coffee while there. For more
information visit their website: www.godoyscoffee.com
A few more places are good
options for a nice cup of coffee:
If you visit the Historic
Center, these are a few places where you can enjoy a good cup of coffee:
La Tacita de Plata. 11 calle 6-11 zona 1. @latacitadeplataguatemala
Café de Imeri.
6ª calle 3-34, zona 1. @deimeri.caferestaurante
Photo: Guatemala.com
If you are interested in where some of the best
coffee in the world comes from, this book is for you. “The
history of coffee in Guatemala”, by Regina Wagner.
The most important meal of the day for Guatemalans is the “desayuno tipico”
or typical breakfast, it is a heavy meal but super delicious. Now, there are
different versions of the Guatemalan breakfast, but the base is eggs, beans and
plantains but….
…The original and typical Guatemalan breakfast comes with:
Porridge (we call it “mosh”) Eggs (can be fried, scrambled, with tomato and onion, rancheros, divorced… and the imagination is the limit) Refried beans Fried plantains Breakfast sausage, chorizo or longaniza (longaniza is a type of spicy chorizo) Fresh cheese Sour cream Homemade hot sauce Fresh fruit Tortillas or bread Sweet bread (for the coffee) Orange juice Coffee or coffee with milk
Some combinations for the eggs are
Huevos con cebolla o tomate: These are scrambled eggs, cooked with “Pico
de Gallo” that is tomato, onion and bell pepper.
Huevos rancheros: This is believed to be from a Sephardi heritage,
the traditional way of making these eggs is like the “shakshuka” eggs made in
Israel. Guatemalan original “huevos
rancheros” are made in the same way. In
a skillet with a tomato, garlic and onion sauce and poached eggs.
Huevos divorciados: The divorced eggs is from Mexican
influence; two friend eggs are topped half in red and half in green tomato
sauce.
If you like to have your eggs in a specific way, these are
the words in Spanish you need:
Sunny side up: Huevos estrellados
Scrambled: huevos revueltos
Another breakfast that is popular in Guatemala is the Tamale
breakfast
This breakfast is normally served for a special occasion,
like Christmas and to celebrate after some of the catholic rituals happening in
the morning like baptism and first communion. Although, this breakfast is
popular in any occasion, like no special occasion at all.!
The tamale is made of corn dough stuffed with special mole
that is a mix of red tomato and bell pepper sauce, spices, local nuts, sesame,
and meat (pork or chicken)
The fancy tamales are decorated with capers, olives and dry
plumbs. The tamale is wrapped in banana
leaf.
Normally served with hot chocolate, coffee or Atol (sort of thick
and hot drink), others serve arroz en leche, (Rice pudding that is a bit
watery) and hot fruit punch for the Christmas tamale.
A nicer version of the traditional Guatemalan tamale is the
famous “Pache” it is also a tamale but made with potato instead of corn dough
SUGGESTED TOUR 1: LA AURORA SUGGESTED TOUR 2: HISTORIC CENTER SUGGESTED TOUR 3: ZONA VIVA
LA AURORA ZONE 13
The tourist complex La Aurora is located approx. 1km away
from the International Airport La aurora in zone 13. It is a safe area and all the places to visit
are within walking distance.
The area is hosting nice places to visit such as:
Artisans Market
La Aurora Zoo
Children Museum
Archaeological Museum
Modern art Museum
ARTISANS MARKET Business hours: Monday-Sunday From 9:00 until 18:00 hrs Entrance: free of charge. Shops accept Visa, Master Card, USD and GTQ
Facilities available:
LA AURORA ZOO Business hours: from Tuesday-Sunday From 09:00 hrs. until 16:00 hrs. Entrance fee: Children: Q.16.00 /Adults: Q33.00 *Visa and master card accepted
ARCHEAOLOGICAL MUSEUM Business hours: from Tuesday-Sunday From 09:00 hrs. until 17:00 hrs. Entrance fee: (Cash only) Locals: Q5.00 / Foreigners: Q60.00
LA AURORA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT DEPARTURES-ARRIVALS-CAR RENTALS
Café Crepette at the Alliance Francaise McDonals Boulevard Liberacion Burger King, Boulevard Liberacion Panda express, Dennys and Papa Jones. Paseo Liberacion Food court at La Aurora Airport Tucan Café airport outside departures La Aurora Club. Pool service. Café from 12 hrs to 16 hrs Restaurant from 6 am to 4 pm. Website: www.clublaaurora.com
ATM Machine Locations La Aurora International Airport Banco industrial, Combex. Artisans Market Shell Gas station in front of the Acueduct Supermarket Paiz Americas and Paiz Paseo LIberacion.
WI-FI La Aurora airport inside departures Café Tucán la Aurora airport departures entrance Café Barreto La aurora airport arrivals lobby McDonals Blvd. Liberacion Inside transmetro buses
TAXIS Taxis Aeropuerto zone 13 La Aurora International airport Taxi zone 13 Outside Crown Plaza Hotel Americas Avenue
SAFE PUBIC TRANSPORTATION (it is a bus, not a metro) Transmetro (Acueducto Station) Transmetro (Fuerza aérea station) Website: https://rutastransmetro.muniguate.com/
•
By DOS LUNAS•
Posted in Travel Guide•Comments Off on Learning Spanish in Guatemala
Learning Spanish in Guatemala
Written by Lorena Bleker Revised by Jake Mahon Edited by Tom Lingenfelter
Considering learning another language as a new year’s
resolution? Guatemala is the no. 1 destination in Central America for
students eager to go overseas to learn Spanish, the second most important
language in the world. Choosing our country to learn the language will
give you the opportunity to acquire Spanish with a neutral accent, live with
local families, and save a lot of money because the Spanish schools here are
offering great deals for students.
Spanish is not just a fun language to learn, it is also very
useful. If Spanish is involved in your career or if you travel Latin
America or Spain, you can at least have a clue what the boys or girls are
gossiping about you! After all, during
your cultural travel experience, you also need to learn how you get your cold
beer or ask directions to the toilet, instead of the dark room! Yeah,
that one!
Now, once in Guatemala you can choose different destinations
for your language classes. These are the top 3 most popular options:
Antigua
Quetzaltenango
Lake
Atitlan
ANTIGUA GUATEMALA:Photo courtesy of TGW. https://radiotgw.gob.gt
A beautiful Spanish colonial town with an 16th-century
setting. It is a UNESCO Site conveniently located one hour away from Guatemala
City.
Pros: Offering great housing options, charming school settings,
opportunities to volunteer and choose extracurricular activities. Antigua is
classy and romantic with many services for tourists. It has great hotels,
restaurants, tourist sites, etc., as well as a clean accent that it is optimal
for learning the language. The weather is perfect most of the time. This place is really a cultural destination.
Cons: The cost of living is more
expensive, it can be crowded on weekends, and, as a popular tourist destination,
where a large percentage of the local population speaks some English, it’s not
always easy to practice Spanish.
QUETZALTENANGO (XELA): Photo courtesy of Inguat. http://vivexela.visitguatemala.com
The second largest city of Guatemala, a mix of Maya quiche
and ladino culture. Don’t take it for granted, because Xela (its popular
name) has an interesting flavor, unique personality and a great history.
Pros: Xela has a large variety of options and prices. There are
affordable plans of room and board, mainly living with host families or
guesthouses. If you’re interested, there are more opportunities to volunteer
here. People have a good accent in general. The local food is good. Xela has a more Guatemalan atmosphere with an
international twist. It is also cheaper
than Antigua.
Cons: Xela has many options that may make it difficult to choose and
getting there may take up to 5 hrs. of travelling by bus. It can get cold at
night because of the altitude (~7,600 feet / 2,300 meters above sea level)!
Where to start looking?
Proyecto Lingüístico Quezalteco de
español PLQE (https://plqe.org)
For more information about Spanish schools in Xela, visit: www.xelapages.com
LAKE ATITLAN:
Photo courtesy of Julian Ursano, Canada
Lake Atitlan is one of the top destinations to visit in
Guatemala. Famous for being surrounded by 3 volcanoes, you can also visit the
different towns around the lake, each with different atmosphere that worthy of
exploration.
The most popular locations for study Spanish by the lake are:
Panajachel
San Pedro La Laguna
Pros: Without a doubt, Atitlan is one the most beautiful lakes in the world.
As the home of many expats of all ages, it has a very international
atmosphere. There are good prices for schools and accommodation, as well as
great dinner and party options in a bohemian atmosphere. It’s also fun to
explore each town around the lake, as each has its own identity. You should come to the lake if you need a
break. Total relaxation! This is a destination for all generations. Life is
cheaper in San Pedro than in Panajachel.
Cons: The accent may not be as neutral as Antigua, since for some
teachers Spanish is their second language, but it is good enough to make
yourself understood. For beginners is a good place to learn as Spanish because
the language is spoken slower than in Antigua or Xela. Weather is great, but It
can also get a little chilly at night.
It may take a while to get to San Pedro, it is a bit
secluded, but there are more transportation options to/from Panajachel and from
there you can take a boat to San Pedro.
Ok. We hope this information help you to choose your next
travel destination and give you a start for your educational journey.
Cheer up! We have seen Germans learning Spanish in 3 weeks, so it is
possible to learn another language in a short time.!
•
By DOS LUNAS•
Posted in Travel Guide•Comments Off on KAMINALJUYU Archaeological Park
The hero twins ®hoteldoslunas
KAMINALJUYU
ARCHAEOLOGICAL
PARK IN GUATEMALA CITY
Written by Lorena Bleker, with contribution of Dr. Mike Reed Revised by Dr. Hector Escobedo
The
archaeological site Kaminaljuyú, which means “Cerro de los Muertos” or “Hill of
the Dead”, was the most important pre-Hispanic Maya city of the Guatemalan
Central Highlands and it is located at the heart of Guatemala City. Kaminaljuyu hosted more than 200 mounds and
13 ball game courts, scattered over an area of 5 square km around the extinct Miraflores
Lagoon, which was located where the Tikal Futura Hotel lies today in zone 11.
Kaminaljuyu was built on a plain and
fertile valley with abundant rivers surrounded by mountains and volcanoes. A
walk through the site reveals extensive plazas with large mounds, representing the
remains of platforms, pyramids and ball game courts. The ball game was a ritual
sport of religious significance played by the city’s elite ruler class.
Archaeological
excavations at the site have revealed an impressive collection of cultural materials
including ceramics vessels decorated with sea shells, carved basalt and
sandstone stelae and zoomorphic sculptures of the Late Preclassic Period (400
BC-200 AD), recording important events that took place in the political, social
and economic life of Kaminaljuyu.
Zoomorphic monuments and sculptures, carved with iconographic elements embedded with strong spiritual meaning, represent important achievements in art and esthetic. During the Early Classic Period (200-600 AD), Kaminaljuyu had strong commercial and political ties with the powerful metropolis of Teotihuacan in Central Mexico, according to archaeological evidence found at the site. Unfortunately, during the last five decades about 90% of the ancient city of Kaminaljuyu was destroyed by the urban growth of modern Guatemala.
The Archaeological Park contains the surviving
structures of the city’s central core which has been completely enclosed by
modern constructions. There is also a small museum at the park. Collections of
carved monuments and ceramics from Kaminaljuyu are on display at the National
Museum of Archaeology and Ethnology located in Zone 13, as well as at Popol Vuh
Museum in Zone 10. In addition, the small but impressive Miraflores Museum,
located near the Tikal Futura Hotel, on Roosevelt Boulevard, just a few blocks
from the Kaminaljuyu Archaeological Park, displays the skeletal remains of
three individuals, jade ornaments, obsidian artifacts and pottery offering
vessels found at the tomb of a Maya noble, recreated inside of a preserved ancient
mound that can be reached through an underground tunnel. A transparent floor
allows the visitor to peer at the the tomb underlying directly beneath their
feet. Unfortunately, the Museo Miraflores is currently temporarily closed for
renovations.
Location: Calzada San Juan 30 avenida zona 7, Guatemala, Ciudad. Business hours: 8:00 – 16:00 (Mon-Sun) Admission: Local visitors: Q. 5.00 Foreign visitors: Q. 50.00
•
By DOS LUNAS•
Posted in Travel Guide•Comments Off on Museum of Archaeology and Ethnology in Guatemala City
Written by Dr. Mike Reed
As spectacular discoveries are unearthed at numerous
jungle-shrouded archaeological sites of the Maya civilization, increasing
numbers of foreign visitors are flocking to the tropical lowlands of Guatemala
to see some of the greatest Maya cities for themselves. With so many natural and cultural wonders to
experience, often overlooked is the one place in Guatemala where many of the
greatest treasures of the Maya can be admired: The Museum of Archaeology in
Guatemala City.
Located
in one of the most convenient parts of the city, in Parque Aurora, close to
hotels and the airport in zone 13, the Museum of Archaeology offers one of the
finest collections of carved stone monuments and richly painted ceramics from
some of the most important and powerful cities of the ancient Maya.
The
museum is housed in an elegant older structure set around an open-air patio
filled with tropical plants and a colonial fountain. Numerous tall ancient stelae, altars and
panels limestone monuments carved with the likenesses of some of the greatest
historical Maya rulers stand against the walls of the walkway surrounding the
patio. The hieroglyphic writing on each
identify these rulers and provide detailed information on historical events and
the cities and individuals who shaped the story of the rise and collapse of the
ancient kingdoms of the Maya.
The
large exhibit halls that circle the central patio of the museum are neatly
arranged to tell the story of the ancient Maya from the earliest hunters
through the emergence of small agricultural communities, the development of
complex societies, the growth and collapse of the kingdoms of the Maya during
the classic period – the apogee of the civilization. The artifacts on display and the hieroglyphic
inscriptions they contain reveal a history of the Maya with as much drama and
intrigue as any of the world’s great civilizations.
The
story of the Maya throughout each period of its development is provided for
visitors in both Spanish and English on wall plaques and videos, dioramas,
models of several important cities (like Tikal) and the artifacts themselves
which are displayed in the open when large and in glass cases for smaller and
delicate items. Everything on display
are among the most important finds and finest examples of ancient Maya
art. Also, on display in one hall of the
museum are examples of the colorful traditional costumes that continue being
worn in traditional Maya communities throughout Guatemala.
Special
exhibitions of some of the most important and spectacular discoveries take
place at the Archaeology Museum when they are announced to the world by
archaeological teams. These artifacts
are prominently exhibited for a period for the public and visitors to admire at
no extra cost beyond the admission fee.
Guatemala’s
major archaeology museum is compact due to the space limitations of the
building, however the curators managed to display many of the finest and most
recognizable works of art in an organized and pleasing way. The Archaeology Museum should not be missed
by anyone interested in the ancient Maya civilization.
Museo Nacional de
Arqueologia y Etnologia
Location: 6ª. Calle y 7ª. Avenida, Finca la Aurora, Zona 13
Business hours: Abierto: From Tuesday to Friday from 9:00 a 16:00 hrs. Saturday and Sunday from
9:00 to 12:00 and from 13:30 to 16:00 horas.
Closed: on Monday and Christmas: 24-25
de diciembre. 31 of December and 1st. of January.
Admission:
Local visitors: Q. 5.00 Foreign visitors: Q. 60.00
•
By DOS LUNAS•
Posted in Travel Guide•Comments Off on Private hospitals in Guatemala City
This is a short list of the best hospitals in Guatemala
city where you can go in case of emergency. For immediate care,go directly to
the E.R.
These hospitals accept some
of the travel or health insurance,. Prior to your trip to the country, make
sure to check with your insurance company which partners operates in
Guatemala.
Hospitals
in Zone 10
Hospital Centro Medico 6A. AVENIDA 3-47 ZONA 10 | PBX: (502) 2279-4949 Website: www.centromedico.com.gt Emergency: ext. 1422. Payments accepted: GTQ, USD and credit cards. Ambulance: NO Language: Spanish. Most of the doctors and specialists speak English
Internternational insurance accepted:
BUPA
TRICARE
HENNER
Hospital Herrera Llerandi 6ª. ave 8-71 zona 10 Tel: 2384-5959 Website: www.herrerallerandi.com Emergency: 2334-5955 Ambulance: NO Language: Spanish, most of the doctors and specialists speak english
International
Insurance accepted:
IMA (Intermutual
assistance) FRANCE.
VANBREDA and/or CIGNA INTERNATIONAL. BELGIUM
BEST DOCTORS. USA
BUPA INTERNATIONAL. USA
BMI
INTERNATIONAL. USA
DKV.
GERMANY
Hospital La Esperanza 6ª. Ave. 7-49, zona 10 Tel. 2415-9000 Ext. 1325 or 1301 Website: https://www.hospitalesperanza.com/ Payments: GTQ, Credit Card, Dollar not accepted Ambulance: Q1500.00 r/t. Q750.00 o/w Language: Spanish. Most of the doctors and specialists speak English.
International
Insurance accepted:
BUPA
USA
BMI. USA
CAJA
FRANCESA. FRANCE
ALLIANZ.
GERMANY
BEST DOCTORS. USA
REDBRIDGE.
Hospitals in Zone 15
Nuestra Señora del Pilar 3ª calle 10-71, zona 15, Colonia Tecún Uman Tel 2279-5000 Website: www.sanatorioelpilar.com
International
Insurance accepted:
AETNAINTERNATIONAL
ALLIANZ
GLOBAL ASSISANCE
BEST DOCTORS
BMI INTERNATIONAL
BMI GUATEMALA
BUPA GUATEMA
BUPA INTERNATIONAL
SIGNA
HENNER
MORGAN WHITE
VUMI GROUP
Dentist
Dental Design Diagonal 6, 12-42 zona 10 Edificion Design Center Torre 2 Oficina 1004 Tel. (502) 2261-8905 USA (209) 201-0454 Website: dentaldesign.com.gt Language: Spanish and English spoken
Insurance: They are affiliated to all major insurance companies.
PRIVATE
AMBULANCES
ASISTENCIA MEDICA (highly recommended) Emergency No. 5203-0525 Webiste: https://asistenciamedica.com.gt/servicios/ Language: Spanish, English and some doctors speak German.
Want to climb a volcano in
Guatemala but not sure if you have the legs for it? Then Pacaya volcano might
be the hike for you. It’s a relatively short drive and relatively short hike
compared with other Guatemalan volcanoes and the views at the top, for a little
bit of effort to get up there, are truly spectacular!
Location
Pacaya volcano is located
approximately 40km South of Guatemala City and, depending on traffic, can be
reached in around an hour and a half from both the capital city and Antigua.
South on the CA9 through Villa Nueva and Amatitlan and then take the turn-off
to Pacaya just before Palin.
Geological
History
Pacaya volcano is not like
most Guatemalan volcanoes, which are generally single peak stratovolcanoes.
Pacaya is a volcanic complex consisting of multiple eruptive centers that have
been active at different times over the last 23,000 years. A few thousand years
ago the ancient Pacaya stratovolcano blew itself apart and collapsed down
toward the Pacific coastal plain to leave an enormous collapse scar. This scar
has subsequently been filled by the various eruptive centers that now form the
peaks known as Cerro Grande, Cerro Chico,
Cerro Cabra and Cerro Chino.
These peaks have all been active in the recent geological past. The currently
active part of the volcanic complex is the Mackenney Cone.
It’s hard to believe but the
Mackenney Cone has only been active since 1961. In less than 60 years it’s
reached its impressive height growing up layer upon layer of ash and lava
flows. The last significant explosive eruption was in 2010. The Mackenney Cone lost
height during this eruption when it partially collapsed and opened a large
crater at the summit. This collapse scar and summit crater have now been nearly
filled in by the more recent minor explosive and effusive lava-flow activity.
Hiking
Pacaya volcano
Most hikes start from the
park entrance in the village of San Francisco de Sales. The well-maintained
trail takes you up through cornfields and forest with well places rest stops
with views of the geothermal power station, the Calderas lagoon (the small lake in the depression or caldera from of the oldest part of the
volcanic complex) and Agua, Fuego and Acatenango volcanoes. On the walk up,
local guides will talk about some of the local plants and customs and point out
the famous Palo Hormigo; the tree from which the keys of the famous Guatemalan
instrument the Marimba are made.
The hike up to the
unobstructed view of the active Mackenney Cone takes just over an hour but for
those who don’t want to walk a local “taxi” option is available in
the form of a horseback ride. Horses can be taken just up, or on a round trip
up and down. Some people stop there but most go further and walk down on to the
lower flank of the Mackenney Cone and the more recent (but now mostly cooled)
lava flows. In some parts there is still enough heat coming off these flows to
roast marshmallows!
What
to bring
Make sure you have enough
water, snacks and sunscreen for a 4 hour round trip. If leaving from the park
entrance in the afternoon for the sunset version of the hike, then make sure
you have warm clothes and a flashlight for when the sun goes down. Most climb
the volcano in sneakers but proper walking shoes or boots with a little more
ankle support are always better. The loose ash can be quite slippery and the
recently cooled lava flows are razor sharp so long pants provide a little more
protection if you do slip and fall.
Safety
first
The summit of Pacaya volcano
is off-limits to tourists. The explosive activity at the top generates lava
bombs that are thrown tens of meters into the air and a change in wind
direction can expose you to harmful volcanic gases. With a recent increase in
lava flow activity there is also the temptation to get dangerously close to
active flowing lava. Pacaya’s impressive volcanic activity can be appreciated
in relative safety if you follow warning signs and listen to local park
rangers, without putting yourself or others in danger.
About
the Author
Matt Purvis is a geologist
who owns and operates Geo Travel Guatemala, the first geologically orientated
tour company in Guatemala. For more information please visit
GeoTravelGuatemala.com or contact Matt on (+502) 3168 8625 or Matt@GeoTravelGuatemala.com
•
By DOS LUNAS•
Posted in Travel Guide•Comments Off on Bird Watching in our Neighborhood Aurora II
BIRD WATCHING IN OUR NEIGHBORHOOD AURORA II
GUATEMALA CITY
BIRDS
By Lorena Bleker
With
the help from a guest that is a professional birdwatcher and biologist from
Sweden, we have made a list of some of the birds that you can find, observe and
enjoy in our small neighborhood Aurora II.
The
observation was made in the months of February and March, but many of these
birds can be appreciated most of the year and some others start to immigrate
from the north around august or later…
Despite
the severe biodiversity loss due to airport, massive urbanization, pollution,
invasive species, habitat loss and climate change, we still enjoy of some
beautiful birds in our area. We would
like to help to re-connect our guests and neighbors with the natural world and
raise awareness of the seriousness that biodiversity loss represents and how it
affects them directly and to all of us.
For
those who are birdwatchers, if you are visiting our neighborhood, and you
identify another type of bird that is not on the list, please let us know and
send us details so we can add it to this list. hoteldoslunas@gmail.com
Name: TENESSEE WARBLER (M) Scientific Name: Oreotriplys Peregrina Name in Spanish: Chipe Peregrino
Description:
The Tennessee Warblers loud, staccato song often signals the
peak of spring songbird migration in eastern North America. Described by
Alexander Wilson in 1811 from a migrant specimen on the banks of Tennessee’s
Cumberland River, its common name belies the fact that its breeding range is
restricted almost entirely to the boreal forest zone of Canada, extending into
southeastern Alaska and the extreme northern fringe of the United States. Most
migrants move along the eastern seaboard east of the Mississippi Valley,
crossing the Gulf of Mexico to and from wintering grounds in Central and
northern South America. *
Name: YELLOW WARBLER (M) Scientific Name: Sethopaga Petechia Name in Spanish: Chipe amarillo
Description:
The aptly named Yellow Warbler is found throughout much of North
America in habitats briefly categorized as wet, deciduous thickets. Most
resident populations in the Caribbean and in Central and South America breed in
mangroves, although at some sites they also occur in coastal scrub or even in
montane forests. The Yellow Warbler is the most strikingly yellow among North
American wood-warblers. *
This bird Migrates mostly at night. Fall migration is very
early, with many moving south during August.
Name: ORCHARD ORIOLE (M) Scientific name; Icterus Spurius Name in Spanish: Bolsero castaño
Description:
Most common in the Midwest and South is this small oriole. It
favors open areas with scattered groves of trees, so human activities may have
helped it in some areas, opening the eastern woodlands and planting groves of
trees on the prairies. Orchard Orioles often gather in flocks during migration.
The black-throated young male, sitting alone in a treetop and singing his
jumbled song, is often confusing to beginning birders. Migrates in flocks; many
move north across the Gulf of Mexico in spring. Fall migration begins very
early, with some southbound by late July.
Name: BALTIMORE ORIOLE (M) Scientific name: Icterus Galbula Scientific name: Icterus Galbula Name in Spanish: Bolsero de Baltimore
Description:
One of the most brilliantly colored songbirds in the east,
flaming orange and black, sharing the heraldic colors of the coat of arms of
17th-century Lord Baltimore. Widespread east of the Great Plains, Baltimore
Orioles are often very common in open woods and groves in summer
Migrates in flocks.
Fall migration begins early, with many birds departing in July and August from
North America to Central and South America.
Name: GOLDEN FRONTED WOODPECKER (R) Scientific name: Melanerpes Aurifrons Name in Spanish: Carpintero frentidorado
Description:
A sedentary species whose distribution straddles the temperate
and tropical regions of Middle America, the Golden-fronted Woodpecker ranges
into the United States only to Texas and southwestern Oklahoma. *
Name: BLUE-GRAY TANAGER (R) Scientific Name: Thraupis Episcopus Name in Spanish: Tángara azul-gris
Description:
The Blue-gray Tanager is one of the most widespread, and
ubiquitous, birds of the humid lowland neotropics. At almost any location
between southeastern Mexico and central South America, it is a familiar
presence at forest edge, in second-growth, along roads and rivers, in
plantations, and even in urban parks and gardens.
Name: CLAY COLORED THRUSH (R) Scientific name: Turdus Grayi Name in Spanish: Mirlo o Censontle
Description:
From eastern Mexico to northern Colombia, this plain gray-brown
thrush is very common in lowland habitats, including parks and gardens. In
recent years it has become a regular visitor to southernmost Texas, especially
in winter, and it has even nested there several times. It was formerly called
Clay-colored Robin.
Name: HOUSE SPARROW (E) Scientific Name: Passer domesticus Name in Spanish: Gorrion
Description:
Permanent resident
over most of its range, including throughout North America. One of the most widespread and abundant
songbirds in the world today. Tough, adaptable, aggressive, it survives on city
sidewalks where few birds can make a living; in rural areas, it may evict
native birds from their nests.
Name: FERAL PIGEON (E) Scientific Name: Recurvirostra avosetta Name in Spanish: Paloma
Description:
Feral pigeons are descended from the rock dove which was
originally domesticated to provide food. Feral pigeons are now found all over
the world
Rock doves have blue-grey under and upperparts and a white patch on their
rumps. There is an iridescent band of green and purple on their necks and they
have grey wings with two black wing-bars. Their eyes and legs are red.
Name: GREAT-TAILED GRACKLE (R) Scientific name: Quiscalus mexicanus Name in Spanish: Zanate
Description: Mostly migratory in northern parts of its
range; however, it has recently become a permanent resident in some areas where
it formerly occurred only in summer. Wherever it occurs, this big blackbird is impossible to
overlook — especially the male, with his great oversized tail and incredible
variety of callnotes.
Name: WHITE-EARED HUMMINGBIRD (R) Scientific name: Hylocharis leucotis Name in Spanish: Colibri oregiblanco
Description:
White-eared Hummingbird occupies montane pine-oak, oak, and
pine-evergreen forests from the extreme southwestern
United States south to Nicaragua. These are territorial hummingbirds spend most of their
time at the lower and middle levels of the forest, where they are particularly
common near banks of low flowers. Both males and females have a dark cheek
bordered by a long white stripe behind the eye, and both have some extent of
red on the bill. Their metallic chipping song also helps identify them from
similar species. *
*Arizmendi, M. d. C., C. I. Rodríguez-Flores, C. A. Soberanes-González, and T. S. Schulenberg (2015). White-eared Hummingbird (Hylocharis leucotis), version 1.0. In Neotropical Birds Online (T. S. Schulenberg, Editor). Cornell Lab of Ornithology, Ithaca, NY, USA. https://doi.org/10.2173/nb.whehum.01
Name: BUSHY CRESTED JAY (R) Scientific name: Cyanocorax melanocyaneus Name in Spanish: Shara Centro Americana
Description:
The
Bushy-crested Jay is one of four species of black-and-blue jays found in
Central America. It is the only one of these four species with black tarsi and
bluish underparts. This species lives in Guatemala, El Salvador,
Honduras, and northern Nicaragua, a distribution which does not overlap with
that of any of the other blue-and-black jays. This adaptable jay lives in
many kinds of forests and disturbed habitats, such as coffee plantations.
Bushy-crested Jays lives in family groups up to 15-20 individuals and eat
insects, seeds, and fruit. The entire flock helps to rear three to six eggs in
a twig nest. *
*Molfetto, D. (2010). Bushy-crested Jay (Cyanocorax melanocyaneus), version 1.0. In Neotropical Birds Online (T. S. Schulenberg, Editor). Cornell Lab of Ornithology, Ithaca, NY, USA. https://doi.org/10.2173/nb.bucjay1.01
Name: INCA DOVE (R) Scientific name: Columbina Inca Name in Spanish: Tortolita
Description:
A small dove of Mexico, northern Central America, and the
southwestern United States, the Inca Dove has extended its range both north and
south over the past 100 years. A conspicuous urban resident, it commonly occurs
at bird feeders and on lawns and other short grass habitats. This species was
originally confined to arid habitats, and its affinity to human dwellings was
attributed to the easy availability of water. It continues to spread into
wetter areas, retaining its attachment to towns and cities for no obvious reason.
*
Name: RUDDY GROUND-DOVE (R) Scientific name. Columbina Talpacoti Name in Spanish: Columbina colorada
Description:
Ruddy Ground-Doves are appropriately named after the bright
ruddy-colored plumage of the male, which makes them distinctive from males of
other ground-doves. There are four subspecies ranging from northern Mexico
south to eastern Peru and northern Argentina. Some geographic variation in
plumage occurs with individuals in drier western areas being paler than those
in wetter eastern areas. Given their flexibility in habitat use and rapid reproduction,
Ruddy Ground-Doves are common throughout their range and are in the lowest
threat category recognized by Bird Life International. *
*Hart, J. A. (2011). Ruddy Ground-Dove (Columbina talpacoti), version 1.0. In Neotropical Birds Online (T. S. Schulenberg, Editor). Cornell Lab of Ornithology, Ithaca, NY, USA. https://doi.org/10.2173/nb.rugdov.01
Name: GOLDEN-OLIVE WOODPECKER (R) Scientific Name: Colaptes rubiginosus Name in Spanish: Pájaro carpintero dorado
Description:
The Golden-olive Woodpecker is one of the most geographically
widespread woodpeckers of the Neotropical region. It ranges through a wide
variety of wooded habitats and over much of Middle America, from eastern Mexico
just south of the US border to western Panama, and over much of highland
northern and western South America. Given this broad range, it is perhaps
unsurprising that some authors recognize up to 19 different subspecies. *
Name: SOCIAL FLYCATCHER (R) Scientific name: Myiozetetes similis Name in Spanish: Mosquero social
Description:
Social Flycatcher is a widespread and familiar member of the
avifauna throughout much of the Neotropics. It can be quite common near water
in forest and edge habitats ranging from northern Argentina north to Mexico. Like
other stocky yellow, black and white flycatchers, Social Flycatcher is medium
sized with brown upperparts and tail, a short, decurved bill, bold black and
white striped head, and yellow underparts that run from the white throat to the
undertail coverts. The species is easily detected, sits out in the open and
gives loud, harsh and sometimes chattering calls. *
Name: BLUE HEADED VIREO (M) Scientific name: Vireo solitarius Name in Spanish: Vireo solitario
Description
This vireo is common in summer in mixed forest, where conifers
and deciduous trees grow together. When feeding, it works rather deliberately
along branches, searching for insects. Its nest, a bulky cup suspended in the
fork of a twig, is often easy to find. This bird was formerly lumped with the
western Plumbeous and Cassin’s vireos under the name Solitary Vireo.
Name: RED-EYED VIREO (M) Scientific name: Vireo Olivaceus Name in Spanish: Vireo de ojos rojos
Description:
One of the most numerous summer birds in eastern woods. It is
not the most often seen, because it tends to stay out of sight in the leafy
treetops, searching methodically among the foliage for insects.
Migrates mostly at night. Peak migration periods in most areas
are May and September. Those breeding in Northwest apparently move east in fall
before turning south. *
Name: WARLBING VIREO (M) Scientific name: Vireo Gilvus Name in Spanish: Chipe vireo o gorgoreador
Description:
The Warbling Vireo is a common summer bird in leafy groves and open woods from coast to coast. Because it avoids solid tracts of mature, unbroken forest, it is probably more common and widespread today than it was when the Pilgrims landed.
Migrates mostly at night. Most eastern breeders apparently
travel north and south via Texas and Mexico, rather than flying across Gulf of Mexico. *
Name: YELLOW-WINGED TANAGER (M) Scientific name: Thraupis abbas Name in Spanish: Tángara aliamarilla
Description:
This species and the Blue-gray Tanager (Thraupis episcopus)
are the northernmost representatives of the genus Thraupis; both
reach well into northeast Mexico, but whereas the Blue-gray Tanager is also
widespread in South America, Yellow-winged Tanager reaches its southern
terminus in Nicaragua, although there are recent records from northernmost
Costa Rica. The species is easily identified by its largely bluish to dusky
plumage, relieved principally by the bright yellow blaze at the base of the
remiges. Like other Thraupis species, it is usually found at
edges and in semi-open areas, and it is rather sociable, being occasionally
reported in flocks numbering up to 50 or more individuals. It ranges to at
least 1800 m on the Atlantic slope. *
Name: WESTERN TANAGER (M) Scientific name: Piranga Ludoviciana Name in Spanish: Tángara aliblanca
A western counterpart to the Scarlet Tanager, this species
occurs in summer farther north than any other tanager — far up into
northwestern Canada. Western Tanagers nest in coniferous forests of the north
and the high mountains, but during migration they may show up in any habitat,
including grassland and desert; the bright males often draw attention by
pausing in suburban yards in late spring.
Migration: Protracted migration lasts late in spring and begins
early in fall, with some birds seen away from breeding areas as late as
mid-June and as early as mid-July*
Name: NASVILLE WARBLER (M) Scientific name: Oreothlypis ruficapilla Name in Spanish: Reinita o chipe de cabeza gris
Description:
Pioneer birdman Alexander Wilson encountered this bird first
near Nashville, Tennessee, and it has been called Nashville Warbler ever since
— even though Wilson’s birds were just passing through in migration, and the
species does not nest anywhere near Tennessee. This small warbler is common in
both the east and the west, often seen foraging in thickets and young trees,
flicking its short tail frequently as it seeks insects among the foliage.
Migration
Birds from both eastern and western breeding populations winter
mainly in Mexico. Unlike many warblers, does not migrate north across Gulf of
Mexico in spring; instead, travels around Gulf, then spreads northeastward to
easternmost breeding areas.
Name: RUFOUS SABREWING (R) Scientific name; Campylotepterys Rufus Name in Spanish: Fandanguero rufo
Rufous Sabrewing is restricted to the highlands of northern
Central America where it is most abundant above 1300 meters. It frequents the
interior and edge of rainforests, and is also found in plantations, partially
wooded canyons, and humid pine-oak forests. These hummingbirds are most active
at lower levels, especially in the dense understory and in partially open
areas. Both sexes are similar and possess cinnamon colored underparts
*Arizmendi, M. d. C., C. I. Rodríguez-Flores, C. A. Soberanes-González, and T. S. Schulenberg (2013). Rufous Sabrewing (Campylopterus rufus), version 1.0. In Neotropical Birds Online (T. S. Schulenberg, Editor). Cornell Lab of Ornithology, Ithaca, NY, USA. https://doi.org/10.2173/nb.rufsab1.01
Name: AZURE-CROWNED HUMMINGBIRD (R) Scientific name: Amazilia Cyanocephala Name in Spanish: Colibri coroniazul
Description:
Azure-crowned Hummingbird is a common species throughout many
forested habitats from Mexico south to Nicaragua. Even though this hummingbird
occupies a wide variety of habitats, in both pine and broadleaf forests from
sea level up into the mountains, specific factors limiting the range of the
species have not been satisfactorily identified.; generally, this species is
blue crowned with a greenish iridescent hindneck, white throat, brownish back
and wings, and a thin, red bill with a dark tip. Azure-crowned Hummingbird
usually announces its presence with a series of sharp “chup” notes*
*Arizmendi, M. d. C., C. I. Rodríguez-Flores, C. A. Soberanes-González, T. Johnson, and T. S. Schulenberg (2013). Azure-crowned Hummingbird (Amazilia cyanocephala), version 1.0. In Neotropical Birds Online (T. S. Schulenberg, Editor). Cornell Lab of Ornithology, Ithaca, NY, USA. https://doi.org/10.2173/nb.azchum1.01
Name: THE GREAT KISKADEE (R) Scientific name: Pitangus sulpuratus Name in Spanish: Luis grande
Description:
The Great Kiskadee is a large and strikingly colored
flycatcher that inhabits much of Central and South America. It has a black
crown with a yellow coronal patch and a broad white supercilium that
extends from its forehead to its nape. The kiskadee’s olive-brown wings
are set off by cinnamon wing coverts and bright yellow underparts. Great
Kiskadees reside in a variety of habitats from forest edges to grasslands to
busy residential areas. These birds can often be seen hawking insects
from an open perch or dropping to the ground feeding on insects and small reptiles.
Name: MELODIOUS BLACK BIRD (R) Scientific name: Dives Dives Name in Spanish: Zanate Cantor
Description:
The Melodious Blackbird is a rather unique and vociferous all
black icterid of Mexico and Central America. It has a relatively thick and long
bill, but most noticeable is that the legs and feet look a size too big on this
mid-sized blackbird. Pairs appear to be year-round territorial and they likely
keep their pair bond for multiple seasons. Melodious Blackbirds pairs perform a
unique duetting display where they sing to each other while bobbing up and down
as if doing push-ups. The most distinct and easy to recognize note in their
song display is a loud “Whit –Tcheeewwww!” that reminds one of a call of
a Northern Cardinal (Cardinalis cardinalis), although much louder and
more emphatic.
Name: RUFOUS-COLLARED SPARROW (R) Scientific name: Zonotrichia Capensis Name in Spanish: Coronadito,
The Rufous-collard Sparrow is a ubiquitous resident of lowland
and montane scrub from Mexico south to Tierra del Fuego. Rufous-collared
Sparrows have a gray head with two broad black crown stripes and a blackish
line through the eye, prominent rufous collar, rufescent upperparts streaked
black and white underparts with black patches on either side of the
chest. The sparrows are very tolerant to human presence and are a
common sight in settlements across South America.
Rufous-collard Sparrows are often encountered hopping on open
ground as they forage for seeds and insects or singing from a
prominent perch on a shrub or rock*
Name: NORTHERN FLICKER(R) Scientific name. Colaptes auratus Name in Spanish: Carpintero escapulario
Description:
The Northern Flicker is a common, primarily ground-foraging
woodpecker that occurs in most wooded regions of North America. Its taxonomic
status has been debated because of hybridization among subspecies groups, each
readily distinguished by plumage coloration. Two other subspecies of the Northern Flicker
are allopatric; the Cuban Flicker (C. a. chrysocaulosus) occurs on Cuba and
Grand Cayman Island, and the Guatemalan Flicker (C. a. mexicanoides) occurs in
the highlands of southern Mexico south to northwestern Nicaragua.
Name: RUFOUS-BROWED PEPPERSHRIKE (R) Scientific name: Cyclarhis gujanensis Name in Spanish: Vireo cejirrufo
Description:
The Rufous-browed Peppershrike is one of the largest species of
the vireo. It inhabits a wide range of open and semi-open habitats throughout
tropical and subtropical Central and South America.
The song is equally as variable but is generally a series of
rich musical phrases that is repeated seemingly without end.
Name: WHITE-WINGED DOVE (R) Scientific name: Zenaida asiatica Name in Spanish: Paloma aliblanca
Description:
This large, semitropical dove ranges from the southernmost U.S.
and Mexico (where it is partially migratory) south through Central America and
much of the West Indies. The majority of White-winged Doves are seasonally
migratory. They overwinter in Mexico and Central America and come to the
southwestern United States and northern Mexico in April to breed, departing
again in September. *
Name: BLACK-VENTED ORIOLE (R) Scientific name: Icterus wagleri Name in Spanish: Bolsero de Wagler
Description:
The Black-vented Oriole is widespread in Middle America, between
western and central Mexico south to Nicaragua; it inhabits open woodland and
scrubby areas, from sea level to 2500 m at least. This species is typically
found in pairs, which remain together year-round, and sometimes in small groups,
but it is rarely conspicuous*.
Name: MORELET´S CINNAMON-RUMPED SEEDEATER (R) Scientific name: Sporophila moreletti/torqueola Name in Spanish: Semillero collarejo
Description:
The White-collared Seedeater is identifiable by the broad white collar, white rump, and black hood. The species occurs from southern Texas south to the western Panama and is the only member of the widespread genus Sporophila that is confined solely to Mexico and Central America. There are four subspecies of White-collared Seedeater, and the species is split into two species by some authorities. *
*Adel, F., K. J. Burns, J. C. Eitniear, and T. S. Schulenberg (2010). Morelet’s/Cinnamon-rumped Seedeater (Sporophila morelleti/torqueola), version 1.0. In Neotropical Birds Online (T. S. Schulenberg, Editor). Cornell Lab of Ornithology, Ithaca, NY, USA. https://doi.org/10.2173/nb.whcsee.01
Name: PAINTED REDSTART (R) Scientific name: Myoborus pictus Name in Spanish: Pavito aliblanco
Description:
The Painted Redstart is among the most attractive and festive
looking of all Parulids. It is largely black, but shows a large white wing
patch, extensive white on the outside of the tail, a bright red belly and a
surprisingly noticeable white crescent below the eye. It is a bird of Pine-Oak
forests found as far north as the Southwest of the United States, south to
northernmost Nicaragua. *
Name: BLUE-AND-WHITE-MOCKINGBIRD (R) Scientific name: Melanotis hypoleucus Name in Spanish: Censontle pechiblanco
Description:
A highly distinctive bird within its relatively small range, the
strikingly long-tailed Blue-and-white Mockingbird is just that. The entire
upperparts are deep blue, except for the black mask, while below the bird is
all white, except for the blue gray flanks and vent. *
*Soberanes-González, C. A., C. I. Rodríguez-Flores, M. d. C. Arizmendi, G. M. Kirwan, and T. S. Schulenberg (2013). Blue-and-white Mockingbird (Melanotis hypoleucus), version 1.0. In Neotropical Birds Online (T. S. Schulenberg, Editor). Cornell Lab of Ornithology, Ithaca, NY, USA. https://doi.org/10.2173/nb.bawmoc1.01
Name: HOUSE WREN (R) Scientific name: Troglodytes aedon Name in Spanish: Saltapared sureño
Description:
Looking at the distribution of the House Wren it is easily one
of the most widely distributed of all New World songbirds. However, the truth
is certainly much more complex. In the past this species has been separated
into three groups, with the Isthmus of Tehuantepec in Mexico being a division
line between two of these, the southern and northern House Wrens. There has not
been a modern genetic study of this species, but surely the reality of how many
species level units are in the House Wren complex will be much more complicated.
*
You
may or may not have seen them, but in Guatemala piñatas are a strong tradition;
a must have for every birthday party, especially for children. Piñatas are among the most important part of
the celebration.
If
you host a “piñata” you better stuff it with candies, lollipops, chocolates,
plastic toys, and you can add money if you like! Otherwise you will be highly unpopular with
the children and their parents.
For
a birthday party, all the participants wait for their turn to hit the piñata
with a wooden stick. The first shot is
for the birthday boy or girl. Their eyes
are covered, with the idea of making it difficult to break the piñata so that
the rest of the kids have a chance to hit it.
After the poor piñata is crushed, all the candies and lollipops fall on
the floor and children jump to collect them. It is funny and crazy when mothers
help their children to collect the candies!
They also lay on the floor!
Prepare your camera, it is freaking hilarious!
How it all started?
The
Merchant, Marco Polo, traveled from Italy to China, where he witnessed a very
special celebration during the Chinese New Year. The population used to break a clay pot
covered with paper in many colors, as part of the festivities!
Marco
Polo liked it so much, that he imported this tradition to Italy. The Italians called it “pignatta”, which
means “pot”. Of course, they changed
the date and meaning, and they started to break the pignatta during the Roman
Catholic Easter holiday that is a period of fasting and prayer, called Lent (Cuaresma). This is a solemn religious observance
in the Christian liturgical calendar begins on Ash Wednesday and
ends before Easter Sunday
or the last day of the Holy Week. The
Catholics in Italy used to break the piñata during this period as a symbol of
breaking from sin. In Guatemala we don’t
break piñatas during the Lent.
How they ended up in America?
The
pignatta traveled to Spain as part of the Catholic tradition during
Easter. Spanish priests that came with
the conquerors, brought this tradition to the Americas. But instead, they made the piñata clay pot as
a star with 7 sides, replacing it as a symbol of the 7 capital sins. It is at this time that they started to stuff
the clay pot with sweets. The spiritual
connotation was that when we break from the 7 sins, gifts are falling from
heaven.
Piñatas
were made of clay and they are still made in Mexico in the same way. In Mexico, they also use the star piñata
during the “Posadas”, celebrated before Christmas. Posada is a Pilgrimage procession of Joseph
and Mary looking for a shelter, going every night from home to home hoping to
find a place to rest and wait for the birth of Jesus, the Son of God. Every house hosting Joseph and Mary organize
a prayer ritual, sing Christmas songs with the guests, and prepare snacks for
the participants of the procession. The last posada happens one night before
the Christmas celebration.
In
Guatemala, we have the same “Posada” tradition around Christmas Celebrations,
but without a piñata. However, we do use
a piñata with the form of the devil during the 7th of December
celebration called “Burn the Devil Day”.
Oh yes, we burn the piñata, but we stuff it with fireworks instead of
candies! This tradition of burning the
devil comes from the colonial times but we started using a devil piñata at from
early 90´s. Before we used to collect
dry wood and leaves called “Chiribisco”, to burn it.
Every 7th of December, at 6pm It is
a preparation to clean the houses from bad elements and burn them in fire, in
order to be spiritually ready before the “Immaculate Conception” day on the 8th
of December. The best place to enjoy the
festivities around those days is in Ciudad Vieja, near Antigua, Guatemala. Antigua, Guatemala, is also famous for
burning a giant devil piñata. The locals
and tourists also go around the fire at 6 pm.
On the Burn the devil day, is when Christmas festivities begin in our
country.
The revolution of the piñatas
During
the 70’s, the way of making pinatas in our country, has changed. Now they are made without a clay pot, but by
shaping wires and covering them with colorful paper. They are mainly copying cartoon characters
from popular TV shows or movies, and crazy politicians! People use customized piñatas also as a form
of protest in demonstrations. For
example, if you want to protest corruption, you make a piñata in the form of a
rat!
If
you wish to visit the place where these funny piñatas are made, the artisans
are based around Parque Colon in zone 1, not too far away from Central
Market.
A
meal we eat during Día de los Muertos, (Day of the Dead), in Guatemala, has a
lot of meaning in our culture. Called Fiambre, it creates a magical bond between
the living and the ancestors. It is a sacred food that symbolizes this bond. Rituals
and sacrifices honoring the dead, were popular in pre-Hispanic times, the
symbolic meal offered to the deceased in Mesoamerica were celebrated in the
month of July when the Mayan New Year began.
This
commemoration was lost but it reappeared in the sixteenth century, already
syncretized with the catholic traditions, when the Spanish arrived, back in the
colonial Guatemala, they celebrated all Saint´s day with special meals cold meats
and vegetables, that were cooked with culinary techniques that they inherited
from the time of the Arab occupation of Spain.
With
the process of mixing the indigenous culture with that of the Europeans and bringing
together cultural and religious elements, the colonial Guatemalan population of
the late sixteenth century, created that magical dish, The Fiambre. It is served
cold and enjoyed on November 1 and 2 in celebration of the All Saints’ Day,
together with the Day of the Dead, to close the cycle of festivities.
This
dish is mentioned in conventual recipes of the early seventeenth century and in
the chronicles of Tomas Gage between 1625 and 1638. The Fiambre meal is a
symbolic and exquisite food for its baroque style and cooking methods. It expresses
cultural heritage, the world view and the way of seeing the Guatemalan world
made up of Spanish, Mestizo and Maya influences. It is truly a representative
element of multi-culturalism in our country.
By
preparing Fiambre, we are putting together the multi-ethnic identity of the
Guatemalan: The use of local vegetables and seasoning that are Mayan, thus of
pre-Hispanic heritage: the use of different types of meats and sausages of
Spanish descent and the use of cheeses, capers, artichokes, olives and other
spices from the Arab influence, and as a
special touch, it hides the culinary secrets of the Guatemalan cooks (or Guatemalan kitchen)
This meal is prepared for the Day of the Dead, relatives together with the closest friends of the “finados”, (dead) are taking the fiambre, to the “Campo Santo” (Cemetery) and share between the them. It is tradition to spend the 1st. of November together in the cemetery and bring flowers, offerings and serenades to their death relatives and friends.
Photo by Chef Claudia Artola
During
the celebration, all cultural elements are mingled together, such as the use of
water, fire and vegetables. According to
pre-Hispanic beliefs, this mingling is expressed as water carried to the
deceased, smoking tobacco and drinking alcohol in the “Campo Santo”, preparing meals
and use all these elements as offering to the deceased, and presenting it on
top of their graves. In some places the
sky becomes filled with color as people fly giant kites as symbol of connection
with the deceased, like the famous Sumpango Kites or Santiago Sacatepéquez kites,
Thus,
Guatemalan Fiambre begins as an offering and sacrificial food as well as a
means of communication with the ancestors. (for the Catholics, the Day of the Dead
is a day of prayers, for those who are waiting in the purgatory for redemption)
The
preparation of the Fiambre’s cold cuts is an activity that bring families
together and this is how the tradition is passing from generation to
generation, that occurs during preparation when cutting vegetables, sausages
and other ingredients. Guatemala has different types of cold cuts according to
the regions or culinary variants of the cooks.
The
Fiambre is an ancestral heritage and not an improvisation of some nuns or cooks
as was previously speculated. This dish is one of the most important meals the
country has brought to the world, probably one of the most exquisite in Latin
America for its unique form of creativity, demonstrated by the incorporation of
products so different to the palate and of such diverse origins.
The
Fiambre is a sort of salad, that has more than 50 ingredients, depending on the
region where is prepared. It has a mix
of vegetables, cold meats, artichokes, capers, pickles, cheese, etc. seasoned
with vinegar, olive oil and fresh herbs like rosemary, thyme, oregano, etc,
Colorful,
tasty, unique. Fiambre is the intangible
patrimony of Guatemala. There is nowhere
else in the world where you can taste this dish.
PRICES are shown in USD for easy reference and may vary depending on exchange rate of the day. Same apply to prices in Euro. Prices in quetzals are fixed. V.A.T. included.
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